Life in Galicia

Hola,

yes here in the Ribeira Sacra summer is in full swing. Be warned –  to use this post you need ample bandwidth. Nearly all pictures will open up full screen if you click them – you have been warned – bottom right is an x for close.

But before we go there, here is the video of a spirited Spanish bull. Every now and than animals do fight back, so it happened last week in Navarra. A bull entered the arena, looked round, didn’t like what he saw and for a change jumped into the crowd.

People got hurt, but not seriously.  Maybe this bull just did not like sunglasses.

Frog boat with shower unit

You realise it’s seriously hot when even the frogs take advantage of a nearby shower unit. These where taken at the new pond, which is starting to blend into the landscape and presently goes through its green phase.

Another clear sign of summer are the larger than usual crowds, guardia civil at all entry / exit roads jumping unsuspecting visitors and wanting to sample their breath.

In Spain “blokes” drive. So they always come up to me hoping to get this smiling of alcohol smelling estranjero, when I have to disapoint them, simply pointing at the empty space in front of me where they expect the steering wheel to be. When they have walked round the car and inspect my wifes driving license, EU type, issued in UK based on German original, they often give up. Last year though, during the Sober fiesta, we where stopped at each entry / exit point, which we have to pass to get to our house and Barbara started a collection of moth pices. Maybe this year we try to see if we can establish a record. Sober fiesta is in September, 4 days , 17th-21st.

You know you have arrived, when you start to get a sign for your stall. In our case Artesan. Maybe next year we will be elevated to our trading name – LemosVerde -. That would probably be the point when “they” finally realise we are here for good.

Pulpo

It is a general sign of the crisis biting here in Spain, as all stall holder complain that business is seriously down. People looking but not buying.

Another clear sign of the hight of summer. Our house martins as well as the starlings have started to form huge flocks. Whilst writing this our resident house martins have finally succeeded in enticing their latest offspring to take to the air. The result: By common decission they have left.

Nothing to write home about you, the reader, may think, but in about a week we will notice an increase in the fly and mosquito population untill the first frost, which I think is mainly due to the arial acrobats having moved their field of operations south ward.

A further sign of summer is the ripening of the giant tomatoes. Although we do have some blight we are looking forward to the great tomato salads that just require one of these giants to feed the many.

It’s also the time of year where you may cruise along the vines, no one in sight, but clearly you can hear a radio. It’s a strong believe here that playing RTVE will keep the birds away. In theory it  also keeps nearby neighbours from sleeping, wouldn’t there be the many fiestas to go to, which leave no time for sleep anyway.

In our village, Mer Sober Ribeira Sacra, this is not used and probably would not work as the birds have wire service anyway.

I’ll sign off today with a picture of geraniums in full flower against the back drop of our fully dried out land.

Expat

PS: Summer – Mungo Jerry Summer time -

Rural stress or “estreso rural” is quite common in August. There is so much to do, to experience and simply to enjoy.

One can get stressed out that the Rio Sil, above the St. Estevo dam, is still low. On the other hand one can get a glimpse of what was before. It’s fun to drive over the bridge on a bridge in Doade and than climb up to Castro Caldelas.

If you get there on a market day or when its bustling with tourists (yes we do have some…), follow the sign to the Centro Saude. When you come from Monforte it’s the first right after the plaza, you get to a parking that is just underneath but not very frequented, as one has to climb some steps.

When visiting CC, don’t miss the castle, even if you have already been, as now the central tower is open.

This allows for some breath taking views.

We visited friends in Christosende near Texeira. Just in case you missed earlier posts or have forgotten – Anna is a weaver and Lluis is one of Spain’s top basket makers. Do visit Textiles Naturales.

We picked up a nice basket and the following evening inaugurated it to it’s proper use. What better way than to throw some chairs in the boot, grab the hamper and head to one of the many great view points (miradores) we have here.

Here in the Ribeira Sacra even in August it is less crowded than on the Camino Santiago. If you’re interested here are the latest pictures from Voz de Galicia – Camino pictures
(Top right SIG ->Siguente / moire)

Unfortunately the area has now changed, as we had huge fires burning around us. It is suspected this to be arson as one of the fires started in three places.

So there will be some sad pictures when we have time to visit this area again.

Sorry, but I don’t have much time to write at present, but next part II will be out soon.

Expat

The chef was wanting a decent oven.

“I can’t properly regulate the temperature and anyway the oven is too small…..”

As I like to eat, who am I to argue?

We went to local and not so local “tiendas de concina” but even in the catalogues nothing was inspiring. It is slightly complicated by the fact that I refuse to upgrade our overall power supply. Whilst looking at the latest technology even including Smeg and the like one realises they cheat. Cooking is on gas but the ovens are electric.

Finally I found what I was looking for, an all gas large “colonial style” oven. It is from a shop in or near Valencia and the owner has a nice presentation on the net and only a few but well selected ovens. Knowing the adversity of the Spanish when it comes to buying on the net I was pleasantly surprised when Sergio, the owner, patiently replied to my endless questions, all via e-mail, allowing me to test my Spanish. I rarely recommend sites, but yes please visit – Vitro Kitchen

He made me an offer, I send the money via transfer and within a week a rather large packet on a  pallet arrived.

It is a nice spacious semi professional implement, with electronic ignition, well spaced burners on top, and most importantly the oven regulates from 130C – 290C.

As this requires an external bottle I rented a large drill (1,20) as none of my vecinos had one large enough, and drilling from two sides is a bit hit and miss, at least when I measure it up. The guys in Sumistro gallego in Monforte have all such “toy’s”.

It’s all connected now, yes it requires electricity for the light, the ignition and the “dog cinema”. Sorry “Hundekino” is what I call the rotisseries with a glass front and rotating chickens behind them.

Whilst at it I build a little shelf from reclaimed wood which no houses our dried goods store with a steady inflow from the dryer.

Lidle had mosquito doors and windows on offer and I managed to grab one labeled brown, nevertheless it is nearly black thus fits nicely.

Assembly is as usual with such things not for the faint hearted and the result is a bit flimsy but you get what you pay for, or in this case what you don’t pay.

As this summer there is so much to do here in the Ribeira Sacra that I may not get to write a lot of blog entries. To give you a taste or some inspiration there is a complete new page available.

Summer in the Ribeira Sacra in rural Galicia

Expat